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Post by Cluemeister on Dec 25, 2016 17:15:23 GMT
from what I can tell, it's a slow heater, so you can leave it on all the time. You just plug it in permanently. Kind of like a crock pot!
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Post by garyfrick on Jan 8, 2017 23:46:25 GMT
I have bought a Tanis for my new P2008 TC and you do need an
LOA. For the one I have now I took a music stand, hair dryer, plastic tubing for the large shop and vac and pipe insulation. More zip tie than I can count and you've got a safe preheater. I made 2 for thenengine and 1 for the cabin. I assume it's better on the avionics
If there warm when you start the engine which, in my experience, is very hard to start cold.
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Post by Flocker on Jan 9, 2017 14:41:48 GMT
My Hornet Engine Heater arrived last weekend. It works as advertised! I put a thermometer inside the cowl and it registered 76 degrees. (Outside air temp was 30 degrees) |
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Post by ChrisConnor on Jan 9, 2017 18:56:05 GMT
I ordered one of these from Sporty's last week. Not here yet. Yeah, from what I understand, it's on or off. No adjustment. That's what I wanted. Throw a cowl blanket on, put the cowl plugs in, and let the heater run. At 250w, it's not much of a fire threat, and should be just enough to take the chill off the engine. I'll let you know how it works out for me.
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Post by Flocker on Jan 10, 2017 3:22:35 GMT
Went flying tonight. Hornet had the cowling showing a balmy 75 degrees. At engine start up, oil temp immediately registered 73.4 degrees. (Outside air temp was 40)
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Post by Cluemeister on Jan 14, 2017 1:53:15 GMT
I was a going to order the Hornet from Sporty's a few days ago, but they don't stock them, so I ordered from Aircraft Spruce. Arrived today. Of course it's going to be in the 60's all week, so I guess I won't use it right away!  |
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Post by ChrisConnor on Jan 18, 2017 15:07:43 GMT
mackattack - I've had two P92's with 912ULS, a 2006 P92 Echo Super (sold to my buddy) and a 2009 P92 Echo Classic (currently own). Neither have carb heat.
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Post by ChrisConnor on Jan 18, 2017 15:13:59 GMT
Cluemeister - I've been using my new Hornet this week with night temps in the 20's. Works OK I guess. I lay a packing blanket over the cowl and put the cowl plugs in. Not sure if I'll notice a difference at all when the temps wind up where they're supposed to be (teens at night). Pretty pricey item for not a lot of heat. I'll be curious to see what you think when you use yours.
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Post by Cluemeister on Jan 29, 2017 22:41:51 GMT
Installed the hornet in the cowling. Not really an installation at all, just found a place to rest it. The air is drawn in at the center of the hornet, and expelled out the end. Plugged it in with its super long cord, and closed the cowling.  Then I put a Uhaul blanket over it, although it's still open underneath. I guess the logic is like wearing a hat keeps your head warmer.  Came back today, 5 days later, and fired up the garmin to check engine/oil temps. For reference, note that the outside temperature was high 30's today and overnight was about 30.  So a nice balmy engine, with oil and CHT both at 70F. I really, really like the Hornet! |
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Post by Flocker on Jan 29, 2017 23:14:41 GMT
Came back today, 5 days later, and fired up the garmin to check engine/oil temps. For reference, note that the outside temperature was high 30's today and overnight was about 30. So a nice balmy engine, with oil and CHT both at 70F. I really, really like the Hornet! I've had the same experience. Oil temp was around 70 prior to start-up with outside temps near freezing. |
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Post by enrick on Mar 13, 2017 2:52:59 GMT
here in Canada, for winter ops, a lot of people replace Coolant change and put Dexcool pre mix the pink one, 50/50...
i dont know on your side what you are using, Evans ?
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Post by MarkGregor on Mar 13, 2017 3:36:17 GMT
We change the European coolant out for Dexcool before delivery.
Mark
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Post by garyfrick on Dec 8, 2017 20:17:46 GMT
Flocker, My opinion is you do not need an LOA although it would be reasonably easy to get. There is no requirement from the factory to get LOAs. The requirement comes from LSA rules. The factory does not require them and in fact if you do not ask they will be happy to spend their time accomplishing other tasks. The fee they charge is not a big money maker for them either. The reason to get the LOA is for the owners benefit and compliance of LSA rules. It also insures that the modification is safe and has the approval of the factory. When it comes time to resell the aircraft a potential purchaser can inspect the aircraft and if it has any modifications they will have the assurance that the factory authorized it. This can affect the resale value. If you sell your plane with a properly installed high quality engine preheater will it matter to the next buyer if you have an LOA for it? Probably not but it won't hurt. The takeaway is any equipment change or modification should be accompanied by an LOA. I should also add that LSA rules say you cannot change ANY part that did not come from the as factory as original equipment. For example to be 100% legal you cannot change the brand of inner tubes installed in your tires. What if you cannot find the same inner tube originally installed in your airplane? Legally you need to get an LOA to change it. This is an extreme example but it is how the rules were written. My suggestion? Use common sense. If you have questions contact Tecnam. |
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Post by montanapilot on Dec 9, 2017 17:36:28 GMT
The amount of coverage on each radiator varies with OAT. I'm keeping a log showing OAT and amount of taping on both radiators so that I'll have a guideline next winter. The goal is to keep the oil temp below maximum "normal" operating range of 230 F, but to get it over 212 F for at least 10 minutes during each flight.
I've installed a Tanis on my Astore. I've been out of town since I installed it, so I haven't used it and so nothing to report. I expect that engine warm up will happen significantly faster.
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Post by LSA Flyer on Dec 14, 2017 23:23:18 GMT
Regarding Carb ice: The 912 ULS does get carb ice and the carb heat should always be used before cutting power for descent. Full on and leave it on until you have the field made, then off in case you need to go around. The only exceptions are for those carbs that may have a water heater block installed in the inlet. Carb ice forms in conditions of higher humidity, well up into warm conditions. It is not a cold weather event. In fact, when it's well below freezing and dry cold, carb ice isn't often a problem. One other issue: Auto gas forms ice much easier than AV gas. Don't let anyone tell you that the carbs are in the warm air flow and won't ice up. There have been a number of carb ice crashes on the 912 ULS that should never have happened because people were mis-informed.
Regarding cold weather ops: I've used Tanis systems on several of my planes and they are just wonderful for a proper preheat.
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