jboyd
New Member
Posts: 15
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Post by jboyd on Nov 27, 2019 0:51:24 GMT
I'll preface this post with this is probably the "stupidest" ever. I'm not an owner and have all of 10 minutes of G3X / autopilot time so just consider the source. That said I've been curious about this issue so I Googled brand "D" to see if similar issues appeared. Ironically they did and the issue appeared to be defective shear screws that broke. See www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=150461. |
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Post by LSA Flyer on Nov 27, 2019 19:34:09 GMT
Good thought, but the Garmin servos do not rely on shear pins like Dynon. Nothing wrong with Dynon's design, Garmin just went with an engagement clutch rather than a shear.
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jboyd
New Member
Posts: 15
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Post by jboyd on Nov 27, 2019 22:48:42 GMT
Well, thanks for the education and being kind to a complete novice. Too many years of working around IT points me to checking not only the software but the firmware AND HARDWARE when automation seems to fail.
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Post by whitey on Mar 4, 2020 3:50:46 GMT
 After much trial and error my settings are pretty much back where I started. It holds altitude within 10-15 ft in smooth air, which I thought was pretty good until I flew a P2010 recently and it hardly moved,admittedly more expensive G1000. What does everyone else think. . Is 10-15 feet as good as it gets. I note the expert settings are available to adjust out “ very small oscillations”. Not sure if this is what they are for or how to fine tune G3Xpert did NOT want me to touch them |
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Post by whitey on Mar 4, 2020 3:53:02 GMT
And Ed. If you are reading this I have since calibrated the A-of A. did you get you apilot sorted out
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Post by Ed Midgley on Mar 4, 2020 23:47:50 GMT
After a year of manual trim I replace the trim motor for the second time. Problem fixed. Apparently I replace a bad trim motor with a new one with the same problem. Both would work manually because they get full voltage. In auto trim the voltage is cut to about four to six volts at times and they wouldn’t work at that low voltage.
Ed
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Post by ronin5573 on Dec 30, 2021 16:37:09 GMT
After a year of manual trim I replace the trim motor for the second time. Problem fixed. Apparently I replace a bad trim motor with a new one with the same problem. Both would work manually because they get full voltage. In auto trim the voltage is cut to about four to six volts at times and they wouldn’t work at that low voltage. Ed I think that i also need to replace my elevator trim servo . I ordered a Ray allen T2-10-a. Looks like that fiberglass trim surround for the elevator comes off and sound give enough room to remove and replace. Any tips especially with the wiring? |
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Post by cole505 on Dec 30, 2021 20:34:10 GMT
After a year of manual trim I replace the trim motor for the second time. Problem fixed. Apparently I replace a bad trim motor with a new one with the same problem. Both would work manually because they get full voltage. In auto trim the voltage is cut to about four to six volts at times and they wouldn’t work at that low voltage. Ed I think that i also need to replace my elevator trim servo . I ordered a Ray allen T2-10-a. Looks like that fiberglass trim surround for the elevator comes off and sound give enough room to remove and replace. Any tips especially with the wiring? Hi Ronin, The easiest way to get the tail cone cover of is it disconnect the the trim servo from the elevator, remove all associated panel screws and slide the cover down towards the floor. You have to squeeze the edges inward. Once the cover is off you will have access to the trim actuator all straight forward once you see it…….. I have had mine off numerous times to tighten the stabilator retaining bolts……. Once you do it a couple of times you will be able to remove the cover in about 15 mins……. Ray & Lucy 🎄🎁🎄🎊🎄🎊🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄 |
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Post by ronin5573 on Dec 30, 2021 21:49:24 GMT
I think that i also need to replace my elevator trim servo . I ordered a Ray allen T2-10-a. Looks like that fiberglass trim surround for the elevator comes off and sound give enough room to remove and replace. Any tips especially with the wiring? Hi Ronin, The easiest way to get the tail cone cover of is it disconnect the the trim servo from the elevator, remove all associated panel screws and slide the cover down towards the floor. You have to squeeze the edges inward. Once the cover is off you will have access to the trim actuator all straight forward once you see it…….. I have had mine off numerous times to tighten the stabilator retaining bolts……. Once you do it a couple of times you will be able to remove the cover in about 15 mins……. Ray & Lucy 🎄🎁🎄🎊🎄🎊🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄 Maybe since its apart i should check the torque of the stabilator bolts? any additional info on this ? |
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Post by cole505 on Dec 31, 2021 6:56:44 GMT
Hi Ronin, The easiest way to get the tail cone cover of is it disconnect the the trim servo from the elevator, remove all associated panel screws and slide the cover down towards the floor. You have to squeeze the edges inward. Once the cover is off you will have access to the trim actuator all straight forward once you see it…….. I have had mine off numerous times to tighten the stabilator retaining bolts……. Once you do it a couple of times you will be able to remove the cover in about 15 mins……. Ray & Lucy 🎄🎁🎄🎊🎄🎊🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄 Maybe since its apart i should check the torque of the stabilator bolts? any additional info on this…… Yes absolutely check the toque on the stabilator bolts but you may need to replace them. The bolts installed on my aircraft were to short. So no matter how tight they were I still had a lot of nose up and down pitch …….. once Josh sent the new bolts. Problem solved the original bolts were to short. So the Stabilator bearing was riding on the bolt threads causing a lot of pitch up and down…….. Attachments:
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