P92 Echo MKII Side window crack

[technammech]

Side window was cracked.   I will take more pictures but trying to remove the window, we are practically destroying the door in the process.  Its bonded really well.

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[technammech]

into the composite

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[technammech]

another view

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[fabricgator]

Did you consult with Giovanni before starting this replacement?
What does the factory install these with?

SikaFlex comes to mind... and it is some tenacious stuff. Like 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive


"While the cautions on the label on a tube of 5200 will tell you that it makes a permanent bond, which can only be removed mechanically, this amazing marine formula adhesive remover will actually de-bond the 5200 adhesive by breaking the grip between the 5200 and the surface to which it has been applied"

I offer my cross trade knowledge "free of charge" but I do ask that when you find a solution to your problem and what works, that you return and tell us what worked and what does not work.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out...


store.marinebeam.com/un-hesive-3m-5200-sealant-and-adhesive-remover/

www.boatingmag.com/marine-solvents-for-removing-5200/

[technammech]

Nov 17, 2023 18:02:47 GMT fabricgator said:

Did you consult with Giovanni before starting this replacement?
What does the factory install these with?

SikaFlex comes to mind... and it is some tenacious stuff. Like 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive


"While the cautions on the label on a tube of 5200 will tell you that it makes a permanent bond, which can only be removed mechanically, this amazing marine formula adhesive remover will actually de-bond the 5200 adhesive by breaking the grip between the 5200 and the surface to which it has been applied"

I offer my cross trade knowledge "free of charge" but I do ask that when you find a solution to your problem and what works, that you return and tell us what worked and what does not work.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out...


store.marinebeam.com/un-hesive-3m-5200-sealant-and-adhesive-remover/

www.boatingmag.com/marine-solvents-for-removing-5200/

They sent us a video on how to remove it with "tools".  That consisted of a picture of razor blade scrapers of varying lengths.    Trust me, those would not work.   All I know is the amount of labor trying to remove it.  You might as well just buy a new door.

[fabricgator]

Nov 20, 2023 22:13:46 GMT technammech said:

Nov 17, 2023 18:02:47 GMT fabricgator said:

Did you consult with Giovanni before starting this replacement?
What does the factory install these with?

SikaFlex comes to mind... and it is some tenacious stuff. Like 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive


"While the cautions on the label on a tube of 5200 will tell you that it makes a permanent bond, which can only be removed mechanically, this amazing marine formula adhesive remover will actually de-bond the 5200 adhesive by breaking the grip between the 5200 and the surface to which it has been applied"

I offer my cross trade knowledge "free of charge" but I do ask that when you find a solution to your problem and what works, that you return and tell us what worked and what does not work.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out...


store.marinebeam.com/un-hesive-3m-5200-sealant-and-adhesive-remover/

www.boatingmag.com/marine-solvents-for-removing-5200/

They sent us a video on how to remove it with "tools".  That consisted of a picture of razor blade scrapers of varying lengths.    Trust me, those would not work.   All I know is the amount of labor trying to remove it.  You might as well just buy a new door.

My first thought when I first saw your predicament.... "I think I would have just left it alone"

EDC an MC acrylic cement are used in the plexiglass manufacturing. It is more like an aromatic light solvent than a glue. We dispense it using a needle tipped bottle and it evaporates about the same speed as 90% alcohol.

Now it will 'fog' clear plexiglass surface, but if you could carefully place a drip on the crack, it would have quickly ran the full length due to capillary action and 'welded' the crack shut. 

It would likely still be visible, and it would be sealed (if the two halves were tight enough to begin with) There are also acrylic cements that contain the EDC or MC solvent but they are additionally thickened with additional acrylic that has been dissolved for filling larger gaps.

I think that the plastic window is going to 'part of the structure' so consider re-installing the door, insert the window, and with the sealant adhesive still uncured, make sure that the door takes its set and the seal and shape are correct.
Now as I type this, I envision removing the door frame weather sealant so it shapes without the additional pressure of soft spongy rubber and then after it is all cured back up, reinstall the weather stripping... There are so many techniques and variables, it is hard to imagine all the aspects of the situation without actually being hands on...
Bon Chance!

Tecnamech, please let us know how it all turns out when complete. Show us pictures of the outcome and give us your "lessons learned" from experience.

 

[technammech]

Nov 20, 2023 22:33:04 GMT fabricgator said:

Nov 20, 2023 22:13:46 GMT technammech said:

They sent us a video on how to remove it with "tools".  That consisted of a picture of razor blade scrapers of varying lengths.    Trust me, those would not work.   All I know is the amount of labor trying to remove it.  You might as well just buy a new door.

My first thought when I first saw your predicament.... "I think I would have just left it alone"

EDC an MC acrylic cement are used in the plexiglass manufacturing. It is more like an aromatic light solvent than a glue. We dispense it using a needle tipped bottle and it evaporates about the same speed as 90% alcohol.

Now it will 'fog' clear plexiglass surface, but if you could carefully place a drip on the crack, it would have quickly ran the full length due to capillary action and 'welded' the crack shut. 

It would likely still be visible, and it would be sealed (if the two halves were tight enough to begin with) There are also acrylic cements that contain the EDC or MC solvent but they are additionally thickened with additional acrylic that has been dissolved for filling larger gaps.

I think that the plastic window is going to 'part of the structure' so consider re-installing the door, insert the window, and with the sealant adhesive still uncured, make sure that the door takes its set and the seal and shape are correct.
Now as I type this, I envision removing the door frame weather sealant so it shapes without the additional pressure of soft spongy rubber and then after it is all cured back up, reinstall the weather stripping... There are so many techniques and variables, it is hard to imagine all the aspects of the situation without actually being hands on...
Bon Chance!

Tecnamech, please let us know how it all turns out when complete. Show us pictures of the outcome and give us your "lessons learned" from experience.

 

I will type something up when its all done.   Made some good progress with a painters tool that I had in my box.     www.harborfreight.com/14-in-1-painters-tool-58046.html?_br_psugg_q=scraper
For sure we debated on leaving it alone but we have the airplane down for the landing gear SB and we had the window ordered so we dove in.  We are learning as we go.    Who knows, if we become a Service Center in the north east, we might need to do this again.